Southern Tier Part 3

Southern Tier Part 3 - Day #2

May 26, 2023

Leasburg Dam State Park, NM, to Hillsboro, NM - 65 Miles

Start 7:07 AM Finish 3:13 PM

Total Duration 8:06

Moving Time 5:44

Stopped Time 2:21

Ascent 2569'

Descent 1284'

Tour Total 139 Miles

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/122444830

I slept well last night camped right next to a picnic table on a concrete slab at Leasburg Dam State Park beside the Rio Grande. The nearby spillway roared all night long, and at one point the air got chilly. I slept in my silk liner and used my sleeping bag as a blanket. I woke up with the light, and found blood all over my silk liner and Thermarest from my gashed knee. It was a leisurely pack-up and I made use of the picnic table. I enjoyed some pecans while I donned my leg-warmers. In addition to my cycling shorts and short-sleeve jersey I was wearing my gilet and jacket.

Back up on the asphalt I checked my tires for goat heads. I took the road back out to Highway 185, and the park gate was open when I left. I took a right on State Highway 185 and crossed the Rio Grande. I stopped to read a historical sign regarding the original timber framed bridge. If I had known that it was still standing, I would have crossed it instead of the new highway span.

I rode through clouds of small bugs, and had to keep my mouth shut. There was a two foot shoulder to the right of the white line and no motor traffic. A bunny ran out to the edge of the highway, got scared when it saw me, and then ran back to a bush. As I approached a farm house, I noticed a large black and white spotted dog with floppy ears running towards the highway. Despite the fence, he made his way to me. I reached for my pepper spray as he neared my pedals. He seemed good-natured, and I could tell that he wasn’t going to bite. He managed to keep up with me to the edge of the property line.

I came to a roadside Border Patrol and a sign read that all vehicles had to stop. When I got to the gate I was waved through. I was enjoying a nice stretch when I was startled by a small gray dog under foot. He kept up with me and, because I was trying to outrun him, I was unable to reach for my pepper spray. I cut over to the oncoming lane and noticed a large black dog chasing me as well. I finally outran both of them.

I entered Hatch, population 1648 and elevation 4050', and stopped at B & E Burritos. I met the proprietor, Chile Willie, who mentioned that they had been in business for forty-five years. He told me that the New York Times had done a profile a few years ago. I ordered the huevos rancheros and a burrito with green chilies, two lemonades and a coffee. Willie asked if I was traveling with a gun. He said that it would be dangerous in the hills ahead because of immigrants. He also told me that the highway across Emory Pass was closed. I assured him that it would be open.

Before I left I removed my jacket, gilet, and leg-warmers. I lathered myself with sunscreen, and donned my arm protectors. I rode through town and the wind picked up out of the southwest. I was still in the Rio Grande Valley and was headed north on Highway 187. I rode through Salem, population 940, and nothing was open. The next town was Garfield, population 137. I was chased by a small white dog, and the hardware store and post office were the only businesses I noticed. A few miles later I stopped in the shade to drink cold water from my insulated bottle.

I rode through Derry, no population listed, and the small post office was closed. In Arrey I stopped at Baqurea’s Grocery for several Cokes on ice. I met east-bounders Aiden, Bryce, and Clark from Auburn California who were riding with a support vehicle. I didn’t get the name of the driver or their dog. They told me that Emory pass was still closed to cars, but open to cyclists. They said there had been 102°F heat in Arizona and mentioned numerous flat tires. They were averaging fifty miles a day.

I checked my email and heard from my friend Becky, whom I had ridden with on the Trans Am in 2018. I couldn't believe that it had been five years ago. She envied that I would soon have the triple crown of American long distance cycling. The sun was starting to blaze as I continued north on Highway 187 and crossed over I-25. I was five miles out of Caballo. I rode by Caballo State Park and could see a reservoir in the distance. I came to a fork and stopped at the Lakeview RV Park Store where I sat at a table in the back, to enjoy the air conditioning. I drank two Gatorade reds and wrote a few postcards.

I took a left on State Highway 152 heading west towards the mountains. Hillsboro was eighteen miles in the distance and Silver City was seventy-five. There was a strong wind from the southwest. I was surrounded by scrub and grazing land to both sides of the road. I stopped in the shade at a roadside sign to read about the Lake Valley National Back Country Byway. This area had a history of mining. I rounded a curve and headed straight into the wind. The ups and downs began, and at Clark Road I folded my map to panel number twenty-nine. Hillsboro was five and a half miles in the distance. The climbing began, and I left the Rio Grande valley. I soon found myself surrounded by scrub and grass covered hills.

I entered Hillsboro, elevation 5180' and no population listed. I passed Grandpa’s antiques and then Sue's antiques. I stopped at the Black Range Vineyards where I enjoyed several T or C Red Irish Ales. I edited and uploaded my report, and enjoyed several more beers. The cafe next door had closed at 3 PM and there were no other food options. The friendly bartender brought me a charcuterie plate, along with some crackers, nuts, and grapes. I met a nice couple who lived on the other side of the pass, and I learned about the history of the area and the water politics. They were impressed with my geographical knowledge of New Mexico, and told me about a cyclist whom had suffered a heart attack and died a couple of weeks ago on Emory pass. The pass had opened to motor motor traffic yesterday. We kept the winery open past the posted 5 PM closing time. I was offered sandwiches and declined. Note to self; never pass down food on a bike tour. It was still daylight when I pedaled over to the park. There was nothing else to do, but set up my tent and get some shut-eye.