Southern Tier Part 3

Southern Tier Part 3 - Day #4

May 28, 2023

Forks Campground - Gila National Forest, NM - Tyrone, NM 63 Miles

Start 7:27 AM Finish 8:48 PM

Total Duration 13:21

Moving Time 7:01

Stopped Time 6:20

Ascent 6171'

Descent 5705'

Tour Total 279 Miles

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/122757564

I slept well alongside the West Fork of the Gila River, with the water gurgling all night long. It got cold and I later learned it had gotten down to 41°F. I slept in my silk liner and sleeping bag. I heard shots fired during the night and this morning a large animal came up to my tent. It was a slow pack up, and I noticed condensation in the fly. As I was leaving I noticed a someone camping in the parking lot. It was a day use only area, and I wasn’t the only one breaking the rules. He had two dogs, which solved what had been outside my tent this morning. I also suspected that he was the one whom had shot the rifle. I used the restroom before pedaling the steep gravel climb out of the parking lot.

It was cold and, in addition to the usual, I was wearing my leg-warmers, gilet, jacket, and buff. My toes were freezing, but my socks were packed away deep in a rear pannier. A mile down the road I came to Gila Hot Springs. I hadn’t showered since El Paso, and a dip sounded pleasing. The river had tempted me last evening, but the water had been chilly and I didn't have a swimsuit to wear in front of the families. The sun had gone down by the time everyone had left, ruling out a skinny dip because it was too cold. That said, sitting alongside the stream had been a treat. I had admired the golden towering rock formations, with hawks effortlessly gliding above.

I stopped to visit a memorial for the Apache Native Americans, whom had once called this land their home. I was touched by the offerings left on a small ledge. Doc Campbell Trading post was still closed and wouldn't be open until 8:30 AM. The Cliff Dwelling National Monument wouldn't be open until 9 AM and I continued forward.

I got to the cliff dwellings at 8:30 AM and had a half hour to wait. My nose was still stuffed up from a cold I'd had before the tour began. Because of this, I wasn’t bothered by the haze of wildfire smoke. I waited patiently, while stripping down to my short-sleeve jersey and shorts, and lathering up with sunscreen. A Girl Scout troop arrived, just as the ranger was about to raise the flag. I was concerned that it would push back the opening time, but I was admitted as the first guest at 9 AM sharp. The trail was a mile long loop to the largest most amazing cliff dwellings I had ever seen. Two years ago on the Western Express I had visited smaller such dwellings in Utah. I had a nice talk with the ranger, who was originally from Oregon. Afterwards I went to the visitor center and saw pottery, tools, and other remnants.

On the return through Gila Hot Springs, Doc Campbell’s was open and I purchased a Don Miguel Egg & Sausage microwave burrito, a Chobani black cherry Greek yogurt, a Boulanger cream soda, and some post cards. There was Wifi and I was able to post yesterday's report. I met a northbound CDT hiker out back.

I had found a feather on the trail to the cliff dwellings and returned to the Apache memorial to place it with the other offerings on the shelf. Another CDT hiker passed me while I was sitting there. I rode a few miles and then recognized a stunning gold rock outcrop to the left and realized that I was back at Fork Campground, where I'd spent the night. It had been a twelve mile round-trip to the cliff dwellings and was well worth it.

There was a lot of motor traffic today, and my radar and red blinking light were on. I was listening to the Duane Train episode from 6/3/20, which I'd never heard before. My iPod often gets stuck in ruts, and it was fantastic to be listening to a new program. I climbed back up the long hill that I had enjoyed going down yesterday. I knew that today I would have a descent after Copperas Peak.

After four miles of climbing, I reached a ridge line where I enjoyed a cool breeze. The climbing resumed for two more miles until I reached Copperas Peak, where I'd stopped yesterday. It was 12:46 PM. I then relished a six mile downhill. I eventually came to the intersection with Highway 35, and I continued south on State Highway 15. There were warning signs about mountainous conditions ahead.

I climbed for a good long stretch, and then had a nice downhill. I pedaled through a pine forest and passed the Pine Flats Campground. Then I started climbing again, and was down to my last bottle of water. I was riding through mostly forest, and benefiting from the tree shade. I crossed the Continental Divide Trail and then left the Gila National Forest.

At long last I entered Pinos Altos. Every yard had a sign which read, 'Have hope. Choose love. Be kind'. New Mexico has so much better karma than Texas. I stopped at the Pinos Altos museum and gift shop for two Cokes. Unfortunately the Pinos Altos Opera House was closed. I was seven miles from Silver City, and once again had cell phone service.

I headed south and climbed back over the Continental Divide to the Atlantic side. I was at 7080' elevation. Huge plains with distant rounded mountains, opened up in front of me. It was all downhill to Silver City, and this would be my third visit. I had come here last year on the Great Divide and I was here last week with Michele. I soon entered the city limits. Silver City has an elevation of 5900' and a population of 10,315. I was greeted with a bike lane on the busy highway. A touring cyclist was pedaling the opposite direction and we waved.

I rode straight to the Little Toad Brewery where I had been last year on the Divide. It was packed and it took me awhile to find a seat. I finally took a place at the bar and began charging my devices and editing this report. I ordered a cheeseburger with fries and also got an order of pulled pork tacos. I enjoyed Grumpy Old Troll IPA on tap. A loud band was playing in the other room. My legs were going into spasms and I had to stand to alleviate the convulsions. On my way out of town I stopped at a Valero station where I purchased a Starbucks Frappuccino and and a pack of Hostess Donettes. There would be limited services for the next seventy-one miles.

I headed southwest on four-lane State Highway 90. I had been on this route last year on the Great Divide and passed the Chevron gas station where I'd stopped to buy lemonade. The plan tonight was to get some miles and stealth camp. Tomorrow would be a seventy-something mile day, and Tuesday would be a century.

I rode past the toilet drive, which featured hundred of porcelain fixtures lining both sides of a driveway winding down to a ranch. I had made a video last year. Toilet art, profanity, and kitsch is my sixth lesson at Hunter College, where I feature Marcel Duchamp and 'Fountain'. I often use examples like the toilet drive for my students. It got dark and I didn’t turn on my front headlight. My rear red blinking light and radar were on, and I was keeping my fingers crossed there would be no large stones or boulders on the shoulder.

I eventually located a nice spot to the side of the road to stealth camp. There was a closed gate, and I knew the drill. With my lights off I unfastened my bags and tossed them to the other side. I lifted my bike over and then climbed to the other side. With my bags reattached I found a nice hidden spot to set up and sleep.